Owing to the scarcity of original M1A1 carbines, here are a few essential things for collectors to look out for. It should be noted that original un-rebuilt M1A1s are very rare and the vast majority of M1A1s on the market, have either reproduction or fake stocks. Also, since the war, many will have been rebuilt with later parts.
Inland Manufacturing Division of General Motors was the only manufacturer of the M1A1 and manufactured approximately 140,000 by the close of the war. The M1A1 was manufactured in two main production runs, both of approximately 70,000. The first was produced and delivered from late 1942 through unil October 1943. M1A1s produced during this run will have early production features, such as flip sights, type 1 barrel bands etc, high wood etc.
The second production run, started in April 1944 and finished at the end of 1944. M1A1s produced during the begining of the second run, will have the same characteristics as the first run, but towards the end of the run, will have features typical of a late M1, such as low wood, adjustable sights and even type 3 barrel bands at the very end of the run.
There is no actual records kept for M1A1 serial numbers and so unfortunately there is no specific way to identify if an M1A1 is original from the serial number alone. Also, during an Arsenal re-fit, M1s produced by other manufacturers could be fitted to M1A1s.
There are many details, but here are the main things to look at:-
Check manufacture by Inland Div. If the manufacturer is different the chances are that it has been put together.
All original M1A1s are made of walnut. Any other wood is wrong. Also, check out the shape and angles around the cut away for the folding stock. Fake or reproduction stocks often get this wrong. (The example shown below was re-issued in Korea, where SL.UKK was added)
The side or back of pistol grip, should have a "P" proof mark, either circled or uncircled.
This one has a P proof on the back of the stock. Note the crack from use by the stock retaining screw.
There is an OI stamped on the inside of the barrel channel.
The underside of the pistol grip should have a marking of OI and a crossed cannons enblem.
In the butt-plate number B257614* should be cast with a logo of a sunburst in a circle completed by a drawing number between 3 and 12.
All metal on the stock should be parkarized and not blued.
The leather part of the folding stock should be of a very good quality and a dark, almost black colour, never brown. It is very common, to find the leather on the cheek pad missing. The example below has a 58 date stamp, showing the leather was treated for use in Korea.
Rivets used to attach the leather should be dull and not shiny. I have seen brake lining reivets with "7/4" rivets only on rebuilds, with all the originals being unmarked. These could be from legitimate Inland rebuilds but a "7-4" marking is modern fake.
Here are some to keep away from:-
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